So long Sapa, hooroo Halong Bay, 'f Wiedersehen Viet Nam

After the loud, dirty, and relatively dangerous traffic situation in Hanoi it was into the overnight train for a trip into the moutains to Sapa - a small mountain town that is getting more touristy by the minute.

The overnight train was an experience in itself, and one that I am not likely to repeat. I am sure that this was a small guage train, as the thing rocked and rolled the whole night, and I barely slept a wink, constantly worrying that it was going to tip. Upon arrival we were suddenly aware of the climate change from the city to the mountains, and were wishing that Bel's family hadn't shipped all their winter stuff home from HCMC. Brrrrr....

In Sapa we again stayed in a 4 or 5 star resort, but this time it wasn't as over the top as in Hoi An, so I was a little more comfortable with the whole thing. It also gave us the opportunity to meet Kym Gyngell (from Comedy Company and Coln Carpenter fame) who was staying in the same hotel. Bel's Dad and I even made him laugh! :)

The mountains near Sapa, without too many rice fields

Although Sapa is in the mountains, and relatively quiet compared to HCMC or Hanoi, it doesn't mean that the people try any less to sell you trinkets and other touristy crap. If anything it is worse here, as this really is the only income that the local minority tribes live from. And I tell you what, you really don't want to stop and talk to one of them, or all the others will come out of the woodwork, and next thing you know you are surrounded by a pack of ladies in dark blue smocks, or with red head-dress, trying desperately to offer you the same crap as everyone else. And of course, as soon as you are done with your bargaining and decide to buy something, the others will tell you "I would have given it to you for less". But please don't think that pretending not to speak English will help you! Most of the minority tribes are versed in many different European languages, and will always find some way to fleece you. :)

The tourist trap...

While in Sapa we did a half-day long guided walk through some of the country side, and through some of the minority villages. While the walk really was amazing, and the country side stunning, even this was a little spoiled by the constant sales push.
On the way down to the villages, we were joined by a group of 5 locals that then proceeded to follow us for the rest of the day. It was cool in a way, as they helped with river crossings, made stuff for you out of grass and tree leaves, and were pleasant company to talk to. Unfortunately all of that kinda disappeared into a distant memory when we got towards the end of the walk, and they started trying to sell us stuff again, even though we had tipped them for helping us along the way (done thing, and then they should usually leave you alone).

The "extended" Greig Family :)

Anyway, all of that stuff you can take with a grain of salt, and is kinda worth it for the experience and the scenery in this crazy little town.

After 3 or 4 days in Sapa (who can remember??) it was back into the train from hell and back to Hanoi (still no towers) before heading out for a 2 day cruise on Halong Bay. If the weather had have been clearer, then this would have been even more stunning, but it was still fun to spend a couple of days away from everything on a reconstructed French paddle-steamer. (Vendors still find a way to get at you out here too though).

One of the rare moments that the sun appeared on Halong Bay

A floating village on Halong Bay that even has a school

All in all, we had a great time in Viet Nam, and I would recommend it to anyone who is thinking about it. I would also recommend that you try and get around to it soon before too much more of the charm and culture of this country gives way to the inevitable wave of tourism.

Tschüß,
'Brushy